Moulay Bousselham, Morocco. Taken Spring 2009.
Sidi Ifni
A shambles, now, but the Spanish Protectorate in Sidi Ifni is one of many vestiges of Iberian Rule in the Western Sahara region.
Sidi Ifni is a coastal fishing city, much like Portland. It’s quiet and beautiful (again like Portland). The city is by and large Moroccan, but has been in Spanish hands on-and-off since the mid-1400s. The latest stint of Spanish rule went up from 1884 or so until 1969 when Franco finally ceded rule.
The protectorate has been falling ever since.
The Spanish influence on the town lingers mainly in the architectural impressions. Art Deco was a big influence on the palaces, churches and other buildings built outside of the medina. Older people will - I’m told - still speak Spanish and there is apparently a barber on the main drag - called Muhammed V, as most main streets in Morocco are called - who has quite an historical backlog. Knowledge and pictures, even, of Sidi Ifni under Spanish rule.
The day we walked around the city, however, was a day of protest. Many buildings were shut down in solidarity with the Ifni Protests, and specifically the release of many of those held in prison for 6 months. So we couldn’t find the barber shop and we never heard the stories.
Liz and I both were fighting some sort of devilish stomach bug that day, so we walked lightly and drank much water. We were feeling better by the evening - Liz significantly so and I only mostly - and so we set out for dinner and found a delightful spot called “La Marine.” If you are ever in Sidi Ifni, I’d highly recommend it. We watched the house cats dart around, a kitten and a mother. They were keenly interested in our salmon sandwiches.
The host, waiter and maitre’d was a very pleasant man whose name I never learned. He spoke excellent English which he’d picked up while working in an orphanage that was run by Americans. I believe he greeted us in French, though, as when you’re traveling in Morocco everyone assumes you are French.
